If you fancy a holiday to Florida but want to avoid the theme parks and built-up cities, a trip to the fabulous Florida Keys is an option to see a different part of the Sunshine State.
Stretching some 190 kilometres, starting south of Miami and ending in Key West, the southernmost tip of the United States, the Florida Keys are made up of a string of tropical islands, connected by bridges and the overseas highway known as route US1.
A brief history
In the early 20th century the Florida Keys were only accessible by water until an overseas railway was built, despite the project being delayed by three hurricanes, the railway served travellers until it was finally destroyed in 1935 by the Labour Day hurricane, one of the worst in US history.
The US1 was built shortly after and runs from Key Largo to Key West, allowing travellers an opportunity to view an array of wildlife on the journey and giving access to the largest coral reef in the US.
Driving down the Florida Keys is like going back in time with low-rise buildings replacing the skyscrapers of Miami. 42 bridges connect the Keys including, the longest, ‘seven-mile bridge’, which runs alongside what’s left of the old railway bridge.
The tropical climate makes the Keys a perfect home for flora and fauna not found in any other part of the United States, including, Red Maple trees and Key Lime trees, an important ingredient for the famous Key Lime pie.
The Key Deer is a protected species, turn off the main highway and it is not unusual to find these shy creatures wandering in people’s gardens. Another creature, you may not want roaming in your garden, is the American Crocodile also native to the area.
Driving down through the keys
The pinnacle of a trip to the Florida Keys is arriving in famous Key West but it is well worth taking your time and enjoying some stopovers on the less well-know islands.
Key Largo is the northernmost key and offers everything for the water sports enthusiast. Diving is incredible here and the calm sea lends itself to paddle-boarding or windsurfing.Boat tours are also in abundance many guaranteeing dolphin sightings. Accommodation is plentiful and in all price ranges, from the higher end Marriot Resort to smaller motels.
Further south, another good stopping point is Islamorada with its white sand and beachside eateries.
Marathon is one of the larger keys and is a haven for boat enthusiasts with its large marina.
Just north of Key West is Sugarloaf Key, a personal recommendation is a stay in the Sugarloaf Lodge with rooms right by the water and a wonderful Tiki hut for evening cocktails.
Key West
Key West, once owned by Cuba, has had a chequered history and was once famous for salt production. Other industries included, salvaging and fishing and the island was once the richest town in the US. These days, Key West is a popular tourist spot, cruise ship destination and party town. Proud of its military heritage, the town is home to a large Navy Station which is a key training base for ‘Top Gun’ pilots.
Houses and properties in Key West are built in typical ‘gingerbread house’ style, with wooden siding, porches and shuttered windows. One of the most famous buildings is the Hemmingway Home, the writer lived here in the 1930s and day passes are sold to view this fascinating house. President Harry S Truman also had a home here and travelled down on many weekends during his presidency.
The main street in the heart of town is Duval street which stretches down to the port which is the southernmost tip of the United States, just 140 kilometres from neighbouring Cuba, in fact Key West is closer to Cuba than Miami.
Duval boasts numerous restaurants including the well-known, late great, Jimmy Buffet’s Margaritaville, home of the infamous volcano nachos.
If you are looking for gifts to take home, Duval is the place to shop, with everything from tacky tee-shirts to elegant jewellery. If you want a more permanent souvenir, there are tattoo shops-a-plenty, fortunately, the professionals have a ’too much drink – no ink’ policy, pop back the next day when you know you really want one!
Sunset in Key West
An excellent trip in Key West is the sunset cruise on an old schooner which takes you out at sunset where the photo opportunities are spectacular, drinks and snacks are served and everyone gets the chance to haul up the mainsail. Sailings can get booked up so book in advance.
An unusual place to visit is the Key West cemetery where some of the one-liners carved in the gravestones are enough to get the coffins rumbling with ironic chuckles. My particular favourite was the inscription which read “I told you I was sick”!
Where to stay and getting around
There are hundreds of hotels or B&Bs in Key West, mostly offering similar nightly rates. Accommodation is in the traditional-style buildings, many of which have delightful pool areas where you can enjoy an al fresco breakfast.
While walking or pedal-power are the best ways to get around this completely flat island, you need a car to get there, unless you opt to take the short flight from Miami but then you miss the whole Keys experience.
I recommend renting an open top car, download a Beach Boys album and take yourself back to the sixties on a true American road trip. Be aware of speed limits on the US1, traffic patrols are everywhere and as friendly as they are, the highway police don’t take kindly to being asked to participate in a souvenir selfie!
The best time to travel to the Florida Keys is between November and May, outside of the official hurricane season, but the summer months can also be enjoyable. While the rest of Florida suffers in the humidity of summer, the Keys are cooled by sea breezes and can be a good few degrees cooler, making it a popular spot for Floridians to spend the weekend.
Getting to the Florida Keys couldn’t be easier, fly into Miami nearby Fort Lauderdale, then all that’s left to do is load up the Corvette or Mustang and hit the road!
Great read, this is on my bucket list.